Thinking of Paris some more...
Train stations don't normally strike a chord with me - think noisy, sans soul, too cold or too hot, shabby, stressful, unfamiliar, daunting, rushed and don't forget the tearful saying of goodbyes. I have always thought that train stations should be swiftly and professionally executed; in and out with the minimum of fuss. The 'head down, bag in tow, ticket in hand, don't talk to anyone as you race for your seat' technique is the one I usually employ....except at the Gare de Lyon. At the Gare de Lyon I like to linger and at the Gare de Lyon I arrive early.
Le Train Bleu is the reason I want to hang out at Gare de Lyon. This restaurant was built around the same time as the Grand Palais, Le Petit Palais and the Alexandre III bridge to celebrate the Universal Exhibition in 1900. It was originally called the Buffet de la Gare de Lyon and it was hoped that the restaurant would attract and impress visitors arriving to attend the Exhibition. It is totally over the top and gorgeous in that French Belle Epoque way - velvet banquettes, brass work, stained glass, crystal and the rooms are decorated with many very beautiful landscape and portrait paintings. In 1963 the restaurant became Le Train Bleu after the luxury sleeping train that would scoot the wealthy down to play on the French Riviera.
Today the TGV train is no Le Train Bleu but rather a busy and practical commuter service connecting the northern part of the country with the south. It is quick and it is efficient but it is also charmless; the modern demands for practicality have replaced the demands for glamour and lavishness. That is why the old fashioned me arrives an hour before my train is due to depart, settles down in Le Train Bleu and orders something delicious to eat and drink. I soak up the atmosphere, admire the decor and people watch. Travelling in style I am not, but I starting my voyage in the most sumptuous way...I most definitely am, xv.
image - me
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