Fashion for everyone

The newest addition to the Collina Strada collection, an adorable round bag that can also be attached to the front of your bike.

My Collina Strada bag is one of my most prized possessions, so it's really no surprise that over the past year, the line has garnered a somewhat large local following. I know this because I frequently see the vivid printed bags and backpacks popping up on girls all over downtown, and when I tried to get a hold of one of her pouches that doubles as a furry handmuff, I found that it had sold out. Designer Hillary Taymour works with artfully constructed leather, as well as a constantly changing selection of original printed canvases, to constantly create fresh new designs that are far cry from your average handbags. The prints, which are inspired by vintage designs, and modern updates on traditional ethnic patterns, allow for a burst of varied color that is uncommon in most designer handbag. Additionally, the bag styles Taymour creates are always innovative: one of her best-sellers is roomy knapsack that can be converted into a crossbody bag, and this season she introduced an adorable tube-shaped bag that can be worn on your shoulder and then strapped to the front of your bike. It's like the grown-up version of the pouch I had attached to my pink Huffy bike as a child, and I'm desperately hankering for one, even though I probably ought to buy a bike to attach it to first.

Classic designs in new prints for Fall

One of the popular roomy knapsacks

Much nicer than your average grocery tote



The Collina Strada take on the satchel style that's been so popular for the past few seasons

Stine Goya blanket coat and sweater, Blumarine skirt, French and English Confectioner's patent leather backpack, Dieppa Restrepo brogues, scarf courtesy of Wood Wood, sunglasses courtesy of Urban Outfitters, vintage turban, H&M tights, necklace courtesy of Ben Amun, Triskaidekaphobia ring.

I know I've already written plenty about the Around the World collections, and the event we DJ'd last week at Urban Outfitters, but I genuinely cannot get enough of it. I have been a longtime fan and supporter of many of the Scandinavian designers involved, and am so happy to have them at arms reach rather than an ocean away that I've started making compulsive visits to the store to see if new stuff has come in (yes, I am a freak and I need to get a life). As I mentioned earlier, I was lucky enough to score the Stine Goya blanket coat that I had been eying all winter at a serious discount during the party, and it's been perfect for the recent round of mild weather we've been having in New York. Now that the spring collections are making their way into the stores, I have my eye on a whole new lot of goods. The U.O. team really outdid themselves putting together the lookbooks, hiring emerging photographers from all across the globe to shoot each of the different designers involved, as well as commissioning infamous director and artist Harmony Korine to shoot the Spring Preview. In some shots, the clothes are a little difficult to make out, but you can get a general idea. I know that our friend Carin Rodebjer's confetti printed pants are on the top of my wishlist!


The Local Firm photographed by Tania Shcheglova and Roman Noven

YMC dress photographed by Zhang Jungang & Li Jie

Rodebjer cape photographed by Charlie Engman

Rodebjer top photographed by Harmony Korine

Rodebjer pants photographed by Harmony Korine

Minimarket dress photographed by Harmony Korine.

A digital print pant and shirt, featuring a photo of garbage from around the twentyten studio.

In terms of design concepts, I'm always interested in taking something ugly, grotesque, or unusual, and making it into something beautiful. For Fall 2011, the twentyten were inspired by something that most people are disgusted by: garbage. Or more poetically, "fictional sunsets over desert landfills," hence the pops of bright orange that show up amongst the detritus adorned garments. The collection includes an awesome digital print made from a photograph of garbage collected from around the design studio, which is shockingly vivid and colorful, and much prettier looking than what you'd find in my trash bin. There are also garbage bag clutches, and one oversized bangle made of melted plastic animal toys. The trio of designers behind the collection, Jeff Dodd, David J. Krause, and Nina Zilka, obviously have approached the concept with a sense of humor and play, demonstrating one person's trash can be transformed into another man's treasure.

A closeup of the garbage print, which was paired with a plastic garbage bag clutch.

A giant bangle made of tiny plastic animals melted together

Knit masks

I've been knitting and crocheting for about ten years now, and have worked as a professional knitwear designer, but I've still never picked up a knitting pattern. Part of it is that I'm too lazy to properly learn and all of the various abbreviations and how to read them. I have found that I prefer reverse engineering garments I see, or improvising as I go along, even if it often requires plenty of experimentation, and means tearing out my stitches and redoing them multiple times. The main reason though is that I have yet to find a pattern that is actually worth following. Most knitting books and kits are devoted to dopey/frumpy grandmother-style knits, or simple basics. If I wanted a no-fuss cardigan, I would save myself the time and buy it at Uniqlo. If I'm making something myself, I'm going to make it personal, and by personal, I mean crazy-looking.

That's why I'm totally in love with the work of Collectif France Tricot, a French knitting group comprised of Emmanuelle Barrère, Solène Couturier, and Céline Lacome-Hulin. Together they create all sorts of knit accessories, dolls, objects, and works of art that are infused with a sense of humor, and represent the endless creative possibilities of the medium. Their projects range from knit prize medals and masks, to clothing for public statues. They've just released a book, and even though it doesn't appear to contain any patterns, it contains plenty of inspiration to keep me improvising. Now I must get back to my latest Rodarte inspired knit project, an intarsia knit cardigan that I'm in the midst of figuring out how to make. I'll keep you posted.

Knit wolf hood and prize medallion

Clothing made for public statues

A knit skateboard and various pieces of knit street art

Knit encased laptop

Doggy legwarmers

Stylewise, I've always waffled between forward-thinking fashion, while at heart being a hopeless romantic girly-girl. Rarely do those two styles meet, but somehow British label Neurotica managed to combine them both in their Spring collection, "For the Love of Ivy." This season, the designers were inspired by the innocent beauty of The Virgin Suicide, as well as the photography of Tim Walker. While they've extracted bits and pieces of romance from these sources in the forms of loose crochet, washed out faded pastel colors, and a couple of frills, they're combined with oversized draping and pleating details that make the silhouettes anything but saccharine. Many of the pieces are touched with digital prints of flowers, fairies, and forest creatures, all executed with the a slightly sinister Neurotica twist. Cute, but still cool and concept-driven.

Dresses adorned with giant lips, a sequined skirt that also has a pair of giant lips on the back, and a super-trippy polka-dot dress

While I always take a look at the other exhibitors at D&A, I have to say I'm rarely impressed by the tepid boho threads that dominate the show. Boho is one of those trends that will never die, probably because, as my former boss pointed out, "people just like to dress that way." I guess it isn't a terrible tragedy, since it means I'm rarely spending my hard earned cash on frivolous personal orders at the show. Still, as Andre Leon Talley would say, there's a famine of beauty, and whenever I do find a designer I like mysteriously represented amongst the dross, I find myself mesmerized.

Turkish-based designer Asli Filinta is one such example. Asli's designs are always cheeky and whimsical, and her Fall 2010 collection took a decidedly Dada and Surrealist spin. Man Ray style ruby-red lips were placed on the backside of waistbands and on the front of dresses, tops had multiple sets of sleeves, and one dress's bottom mirrored its own top with an upside-down collar and set of sleeves. There were also plenty of Filinta's signature playful touches: bold polka-dots, plenty of pom-poms, and a cute/menacing bunny rabbit made plenty of appearances. I spent a fair amount of time poking around the collection, and I was hoping to leave with a bunny, but alas, someone else got to it before me! Still, you can find her current collection (and the bunny) at my favorite online retailer, The Moon and Mars.

A little while ago, I got a chance to take a look at Gabriela Goldbaum's collection of silk evening gowns and cocktail dresses. Each piece is decidedly feminine, with an obvious lingerie influence, and has the feel of an opulent pair of silk pajamas made for wearing out. The elegant and somewhat simple exterior hides a network of interior boning and corset work that creates the streamlined silhouette, and the true beauty of the work lies in the craftsmanship. Here are a few of my favorite pieces, along with some shots I took of the little details that make everything work so well.

Last week, I stopped by Agentur V to take a peek at the Spring 2010 collections. One of the most immediately captivating lines was Misomber Nuan, based out of Berlin. Although the drapey clothing looked deceptively like women's wear on the hangers, a quick flip through the lookbook made it clear that the collection was meant for men. Not the waifish androgynous types, but strong, brooding men, of the Ernest Hemingway variety. Amongst the abstract sources of inspiration, the image of a shipbuilder hauling loads of twisted steel is referenced, and one imagines this hulking man shrouded in various layers of Misomber Nuan. Although I don't know many muscle men myself, I do know plenty of svelte lads who would still love to swath themselves in these precisely crafted and constructed clothes. In fact, the dim photographs of the lookbook model almost appears to be my friend Chris, of Violet Hour. Listen up boys (you know who you are!), I think I just found your new favorite designer.